Iyi nharo ndeimwe yenharo dzakaitwa mubhuku idzva nemunyori W. David Marks, Status and Culture.Vataridzi vemafashoni vanogona kuziva zita raMarx kubva mubhuku rake rekare, Ametora, iro rinorondedzera matorero akaita Japan maitiro ekuAmerica ndokuritengesa.Basa rake idzva rinoratidza zvaanodaidza kuti "chakavanzika chikuru chetsika" - kunyanya nei vanhu vachisarudza mamwe maitiro uye quirks pasina chikonzero.
Chokwadika, mirangariro inoshanda kana mitongo yeunhu kazhinji kazhinji ndiyo pembedzo dzatinoshandisa kupembedza kutiza kwedu kune miitiro mitsva kana kuti zviratidzo zvechimiro.Vatengi vanogona kuzvitaurira kuti zvigadzirwa uye hunyanzvi hwebhegi reBirkin ndezvechipiri kune imwe, kunyangwe isingashande pakutakura zvinhu kupfuura mabhegi anogona kutengwa nechidimbu chemutengo.Zvikumbiro zverunako kana kutendeka zvinogonawo kushandiswa sechikonzero chekuenda kubva pahupamhi lapel kuenda kune skinny kana baggy jeans, izvo isu tisina chaicho chinangwa chekushanda.
Maitiro akadaro haapo chete munharaunda yemazuva ano yevatengi."Mumakore apfuura, madzinza ari oga akachinja magadzirirwo ebvudzi pasina kunyoresa kuGQ," Marx akanyora muchitsauko pamusoro pemafashoni.Tinogona kutaura kuti maitiro anogadzira indasitiri yemafashoni, uye kwete zvinopesana.
Pamwoyo wemabasa etsika aya, maererano naMarx, chido chedu chechimiro uye kukwanisa kwedu kuzvirumbidza nazvo.Chiratidzo chechimiro chinoshanda chinoda imwe mari yekubhadhara kuti ive yakasiyana, ingave mutengo wayo chaiwo (Birkins zvakare) kana kungoita fungidziro yeruzivo pamusoro payo iyo inogona kuzivikanwa chete neavo vane ruzivo irworwo, senge yakavanzika Japanese label.
Nekudaro, iyo Internet iri kuchinja magadzirirwo, zvigadzirwa, uye zvimwe zvese zvinogadzira kukosha kwechimiro.Nekuuya kwevezvenhau uye kugadzirwa kwakawanda zana rapfuura, hupfumi hwetsika senge ruzivo rwemukati hunogona kuve hwakakosha kupfuura kuratidzwa kwehupfumi, sezvo huchikwanisa kuratidza chimiro uye kukurudzira kutevedzera.Asi nhasi une mukana wekukurumidza kunenge chero ruzivo kana nyaya yaungafungidzira, iyo yakakonzera kurudzi rwe "kusamira kwetsika", Marx akapokana kuti hapana chinoratidzika kunge chine kushingirira, uye kuti, kunyangwe zvakadaro, tsika haina kumbobvira yaita senge. kuenda mberi.Izvi zvinobatsira kutsanangura iyo retro craze inoita kuti fashoni yemazuva ano iite seyekudzokororwa kwekare kwete inguva inozivikanwa munhoroondo yemafashoni.
“Zvakawanda zvebhuku rino zvinobva mukufunga pamusoro pechisina kururama netsika iye zvino uye kuziva kuti nzira bedzi yandinogona kutsanangura nayo, kutanga, kuti ndine rudzi rwakati rwerondedzero pamusoro pokuti tsika dzinoshanda sei, kana kuti zvimwe fungidziro.uye ndedzipi tsika dzetsika, "Marx akadaro mubvunzurudzo.
BoF inokurukura naMakasi kuti Indaneti iri kushandura sei kusaina mamiriro, maitiro ayo patsika, NFTs, uye kukosha kwehunyanzvi muzera redhijitari.
Muzana ramakore rechi20, ruzivo uye kuwana zvigadzirwa zvave zvave mutengo wekusaina.Indaneti ndiyo yakatanga kuputsa zvipingamupinyi zvemashoko.Zvese zvinogona kuwanikwa nyore paInternet.Zvadaro [zvakakanganisa] kugovera uye kuwana kune chigadzirwa.
Kunyangwe muma1990s, ndakabvunzurudzwa muNew York Times nezvechinyorwa chaitaura nezve Tsoko Yekugeza nekuti vanhu vaiyedza kutenga Tsoko Yekugeza muNew York.Izvo zvakanyanya kana zvishoma zvisingagoneki, nekuti iwe unofanirwa kuenda kuJapan, izvo zvisina munhu akaita panguva iyoyo, kana iwe unofanirwa kuenda kuchitoro kuNew York, kwavanombova nazvo, kana iwe unofanirwa kuenda kuLondon, chitoro paari..Ndizvo zvose.Saka kungoshanyira Tsoko Yekugeza kune mitengo yakakwira yekusaina, zvichiita kuti ive mucherechedzo mukuru wekusiyanisa, uye vanhu vanofunga kuti inotonhorera nekuti ishoma zvayo.
Hapana chaicho nhasi chausingakwanise kutenga uye kuunza kwauri chero nguva, chero kupi.Iwe unogona kumuka pakati pehusiku uye kuronga.Asi zvinonyanya kukosha, zvese ndeye plagiarism.Kana iwe uchida chimwe chinhu mune imwe dhizaini yaunoona panzira yekumhanya, unogona kuchiwana izvozvi.Nokudaro, hapana zvipingamupinyi kune ruzivo uye hapana zvipingamupinyi kune zvigadzirwa.
Iwe unojekesa mubhuku kuti hauoni maitiro aya seasina kwaakarerekera.Chokwadi zvakaipa.Izvi zvinoita kuti tsika dzifire, sezvo chiratidzo chekutanga chiri kukosha kwedhora, kwete chero capital capital.
sezvizvi.Handizivi kuti waiona here vhidhiyo yacho, asi kune mavideo evanhu vanofamba LA vachibvunza vanhu nezvekupfeka kwavo.Pavanoongorora chipfeko chimwe nechimwe, havatauri nezvemhando, vanongotaura nezve kukosha.Ndakazviona ndokuti, “Haaa, ingori imwe nyika,” kunyanya sezvo muchizvarwa changu unonyara kutaura nezvemutengo wacho kana kuedza kuzvirerutsa.
Guta guru retsika rave izwi rakasviba.Pashure pokunge [nyanzvi yezvemagariro avanhu] Pierre Bourdieu anyora zvishoma kana kuti zvishoma kuti kukosheswa kwounyanzvi hwakaoma uye husingaoneki chiratidzo chekirasi uye kuti munhu ari wose ari kuvamba kunzwisisa, pakava nokudzokera shure kwakajeka: “Tinofanira kunzvera nounyoro.Art, kubva kumusoro kusvika pasi.kuitira kuti kukoshesa kweunyanzvi kurege kuva nzira yekungoburitsa zvimiro zvekirasi. "Tsika dzakaderera dzinongobatsira setsika dzepamusoro.Asi zvaari kuedza kuita ndezvekubvisa capital capital senzira yekusabatanidzwa.Inosundira [zviratidziro zvechimiro] kudzokera muhupfumi, izvo zvandisingafungi kuti ivavariro yemunhu.Ingori systemic mhedzisiro yekuchinja uku.
Nharo yangu haisi yekuti "tinofanirwa kudzosa muzinda wetsika dzevakuru senzira yekusarura vasina kudzidza."Ikoko kunongoda kuve neimwe nzira yemubairo wezvandinodaidza kuomarara kwekufananidzira, zvinoreva kudzika, kunonakidza, kuomesesa kuongorora tsika pasina kuonekwa sekunyepedzera, kunyomba, uye xenophobic.Pane kudaro, nzwisisa kuti ndihwo hutsva uhwu hunofambisa iyo yese tsika ecosystem mberi.
Mufashoni, kunyanya, hunyanzvi hunorasa kukosha muzera reinternet nekuti unogona kuti kuomarara kwekufananidzira?
Ndinofunga kuti ndiyo imwe nzira.Ndinofunga kuti hunyanzvi hwadzoka.Sezvo zvese zviripo, mastery inzira yekudzokera kune kushomeka uye kushomeka.Panguva imwecheteyo, sezvo zvese zvanyanya kana kushoma kugadzirwa nemichina, kurondedzera kweiyo brand kunowedzera kuoma.Ma brand anofanirwa kudzokera kuhunyanzvi kugadzira nyaya inoruramisa mutengo weprimiyamu.
Zviripachena, kune akasiyana marudzi emasaini masaini ari kuitika mune network.NFTs dzakawana nzira yekugadzira kushomeka kwezvinhu zvedhijitari nekubvumira vanhu kuratidza varidzi vechinhu chakaita sejpeg.Iwe unoona mamwe maNFT akaunganidzwa, akadai seBored Ape Yacht Club, kutanga kuve zviratidzo zvechinzvimbo munharaunda ye crypto uye yobva yawedzera kufarirwa.Izvi zvinoreva here kuti kusaina kuchiri kuenderera nenzira imwe chete, asi isu tiri kungotsvaga nzira nyowani dzekuisa chiratidzo uye chiratidzo sezvo huzhinji hutsika hunogadzirwa painternet?
Ndinotenda kuti zviratidzo zvechimiro.Ini ndinongofunga kuti zviratidzo zvechimiro chisina simba nekuti zviratidzo zvechimiro zvinoda zvinhu zvitatu.Vanoda mari yekusaina: panofanira kunge paine chimwe chinhu chinoita kuti zviome kuzviwana.Vanayo.Zvinodhura kana kuti zvingave zvishoma.Zvichiri zvakaoma kuwana imwe.Asi ivo vanoshaya zvimwe zvinhu zviviri zvine chimiro chakanaka chechiratidzo, chiri alibi - hapana chikonzero chekutenga chimwe kunze kwekufungidzira kwemari kana iwe uchida kutenga chiratidzo.Ipapo iye zvakare haana hukama neagara aripo epamusoro-mapoka mapoka.Boring Monkeys dzakasvika pedyo apo Madonna, Stephen Curry nevamwe vevakakurumbira ava vakatanga kudzitenga vachidziisa mumapikicha avo.
Asi chinhu chikuru muzviratidzo zvechimiro ndechekuti panofanirwa kuve nekusara kwemaitiro.Vanofanira kunge vaine rimwe basa rinokwanisa kuve chikamu chechisikigo chemararamiro evanhu chinovaita kuti vasava neshungu, asi chikamu chechokwadi chemararamiro evanhu uyezve chishuwo chevamwe.
Zvinoita sekuti tinogara tiine chizvarwa chechidiki chinoda kusiyana uye kurwisa chizvarwa chekare.Havagadziri ivo pachavo guta guru retsika uye zviratidzo zvechimiro?Pane chinochinja here?
Kana iwe uchigara paInternet uye uchigara paTikTok, iwe unofanirwa kuziva iyo syntax yepuratifomu mazuva ese, nekuti iwe unofanirwa kuziva kuti ndeapi memes ari kufamba, majee ari mavari uye asiri.Irwo ruzivo rwese rwakavakirwa, uye ndinonzwa sekunge ndiko kunoenda simba rakawanda.Handinzwi sokuti simba rinopinda mukugadzira mhando itsva dzemimhanzi inotidzinga, kugadzira zvipfeko zvitsva zvinotidzinga.Iwe hausi kuzviona kune vechidiki.
Asi neTikTok, ndinofunga vanogadzira zvemukati zvevhidhiyo zvinosemesa vanhu vakuru nekuti vazhinji vakuru vanotora TikTok voti, "Ndabuda."yakagadzirirwa vakuru nekuti ine yakaipisisa, yakaderera yakazara kuravira mwero muvhidhiyo yechipiri 15.Haufanire kunge uri basa reunyanzvi.Naizvozvo, pane misiyano pakati pevechiduku.Haisiyo chete nzvimbo yatakajaira, kureva kuomarara kwekufananidzira kana kuomarara kwehunyanzvi.
Ndinofunga kuti chimwe chezvinhu izvo vazhinji vedu takanzwa mumakore apfuura ndechekuti mafashoni haasisiri anoshanda sezvaaimboita.Sezvo zvese zvichingoonekwa nekukasika panzira yekumhanya kana paTikTok, ivo vanosimuka uye vanoparara nekukurumidza zvekuti kune mashoma, kana aripo, akasiyana maitiro mugore rakapihwa.Dai zvese zvaivepo online kwemaminetsi gumi nemashanu chete, pangava nechimwe chinhu chinogona kukudziridza kukosha kwenhoroondo kwawakataura nezvayo mubhuku kune zvizvarwa zvinotevera?
Mafambiro emafashoni haasi ega ekurerwa kana kutenga, asi nezve vanhu vanovasanganisa mukuzivikanwa kwavo nenzira dzavanofunga kuti ndeyechokwadi.Nenguva pfupi yakadaro yenguva pakati pekuonekwa kwezano uye painopararira kana kuti inogona kupararira munharaunda, vanhu havana nguva yekuigamuchira uye kuita kuti ive chikamu chekuzivikanwa kwavo.Pasina iyo, hairatidzi semaitiro emagariro, saka unowana iyi microscopic kufamba.Iwe unogona kutovadaidza kuti nanotrends.Netsika, mamiriro acho anotova ephemeral.
Asi anoramba achitsauka pane zvimwe zvinhu nekufamba kwenguva.Isu hatisisiri mu skinny jeans mode.Kunyange kana zvinhu zvose zvikafamba zvakanaka, kana iwe ukatarisa ganda re jeans, iwe uchiri kufunga kuti iduku.J.Crew's baggy chinos inondinakidza nekuti kana wanga uchitarisa Popeye kwemakore mana apfuura, unoona kuti vane silhouette yakakura chaizvo.Izvo zvese zvinobva kune uyu stylist, Akio Hasegawa.Zviripachena kuti ari kuita nezvenyaya yekuti zvinhu zvadzikira zvakanyanya kuThom Browne, asi varume chete ndivo vari kutanga kupfeka zvipfeko zvinovaenderana navo.Asi izvi pazvinongoitika, musuwo weiyo silhouette yakakura inovhura.
Saka kutaura kuti hapana maitiro, handifungi kuti ichokwadi.Icho chokwadi chekuti isu tiri kufamba kubva kuhunyengeri kuenda kune chikuru mune zvese maitiro.Ingori yechinyakare-chinyakare, inofamba zvishoma nezvishoma macro maitiro, kwete akasimba, anosanganisira 20th century micro maitiro atakaona munguva yakapfuura.
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Nguva yekutumira: Oct-19-2022